At the Fire Gallery, we want you to enjoy your stove and use it to its full potential. Our showroom staff are available to answer any queries you may have about your existing fireplace, or your new stove. These frequently asked questions may also help:
We are the exclusive Morsø showroom covering from Westminster to Swindon. This includes Surrey, SW London, Richmond, Kingston, Windsor, Reading, Newbury and more. Do contact us to see if we cover where you live.
We can help with the installation of your stove in any of these areas or can just supply you with your Morsø stove, parts and accessories.
No, if you do not have an existing chimney, you will need a twin wall, insulated flue system. This will come off the top or the back of your chosen stove and run either on an outside wall to the apex of the roof or it can run up through your house and out through the roof. We would recommend a free standing convector stove for this situation.
Most existing chimneys are suitable for a wood burner. Even if a chimney breast / flue has been removed in part or is blocked - we can almost always find a solution. Do Contact us to book a survey.
If your chimney is no larger than 9” square or 10” in diameter, is not on an external wall and is gas-tight your stove can be connected to the base of your existing flue using appropriate flue components. (We can undertake a captive smoke test to provide an indication of whether your existing flue is gas-tight.) The base of the existing flue must be completely sealed and provision made for effective flue cleaning.
However, most stove manufacturers recommend they are used in conjunction with a flue liner as:
1. It prevents leakage of smoke if there are cracks or gaps in the existing flue. (In properties built prior to the 1920’s more than 70% of the flues that we test leak.)
2. It reduces the time taken for gases to pass through the flue because it is of a small diameter and has smooth inner surfaces. This reduces the likelihood of condensation in the flue.
3. It allows the possibility of adding insulation to the void between the outer skin of the liner and the original flue which also reduces the likelihood of condensation of flue gases inside the liner and also makes the stove easier to light. (Stronger draw from cold) In short, a liner can help your stove work at its best.In practice around 9 out of 10 stoves that we install include the fitting of flue-liners.
We would need to undertake a survey to give an accurate costing but a lined stove installation would be between £1,400.00 and £1,700.00
A stove installation does need to be undertaken in compliance with the relevant building regulations. Our recommended installers are HETAS approved so can provide a HETAS certificate to our customers to confirm the stove has been fitted by a trained installer and in accordance with all neccesary building regulations.
If re-lining a flue we do need access to the top of the chimney. In 8 out of 10 installations we can access the chimney top using ladders or via a roof hatch but if the stack is particularly difficult to reach or is very tall scaffolding may be required.
We can undertake the removal of existing gas fires (using a sub-contracted Gas-Safe engineer), open out fireplaces to their original ‘built-size’ and all associated building work to include installing new lintels, dry-lining, rendering and plastering.
Yes, and we can also undertake any breaking out and finishing work your fireplace may need to create the look you want.
Free standing stoves in fireplaces need a gap around them of at least 100mm to the sides and 150mm at the top but ideally there should be 150+mm clearance to each side and 250+ mm to the lintel. In small fireplaces we recommend bringing the stove forward using a rear-exiting flue to maximise the heat output to the room. An alternative, is an inset stove which does not require these distances or if possible, we would open your fireplace up to a larger size to accomodate the stove.
All stoves have quoted minimum distance requirements to combustible materials including wooden fireplace surrounds, timber beams, plaster-board and wallpaper. These distances must be maintained in order to comply with UK Building Regulations. In some cases it is possible to use heat shields to protect combustible materials located within these stated distances.
The stove does need to sit on a non-combustible hearth – this can be slate, granite, concrete, toughened glass etc and needs to be a required thickness depending on the stove type and material chosen. We can supply and install a wide range of hearths.
If the stove is over 5kw in output, a permanently open air vent is required. This is usually a vent put in a suspended floor or through an external wall.Alternatively, one could use an external air kit attached to the stove with a pipe connected to an external wall or ventilated space under the floor. Homes built post 2007 need an air-vent, regardless of the stove’s output. Depending on the fireplace position and stove type it may be possible to connect a vent directly to the stove.
Yes, we have a selection of natural stone surrounds in bathstone or limestone as well as wooden beams in many different colours and sizes.
We only install Morsø stoves that we have supplied, so that we can ensure we can offer you the full 10 year stove warranty.
A fire can be started rapidly by using a natural firelighter or scrunching a few of sheets of newspaper and placing them beside a small log then covering this with a large handful of small dry kindling. Prop the kindling against the log to stop it collapsing. Include a few thin pieces of wood in the kindling which will catch fire easily and help the fire to build.
The first time you light the stove the paint on the stove will undergo a curing process. This process produces a thin haze of smoke and a ‘hot’ smell. It is best to keep the fire small for this initial burn and it’s also worth opening a window to allow the smoke to escape. Do not touch or wipe the paint surfaces while this curing process is taking place.
This is either due to not establishing your fire before adding a larger log or that your wood is not seasoned enough. To establish your fire, at the lighting stage open all the air slides / spin-wheels according to the stove’s instruction manual. Light the paper/fire lighter and wait for the initial quantity of kindling to blaze. Add a couple of large kindling sticks / small logs and allow these to set alight fully. At this stage you should be able to close the primary air supply and then control the ‘burn-rate’ of the fire with the secondary, ‘airwash’ air supply for the remainder of your fire. (You may occasionally need to open the primary air supply again for a short period to help a log added to a bed of embers to burst into flame.) We suggest that you build the size of the fire steadily until a good operating temperature has been achieved then ‘throttle-back’ the secondary air supply until a steady burn-rate is established. It will take some time to get to know your stove but you will soon learn what air slide positions work best. A fire allowed to build gradually will bring the stove to the correct operation temperature and will burn efficiently and larger logs can then be added – a couple/few at a time is fine. Your wood should be under 20% moisture
This is a sign that the wood you are burning is not less than 20% moisture or that your fire is not hot enough before being throttled back - please see the answer above for how to establish a hot fire.
Make sure you have read the manufacturers instructions carefully and that you are clear which position is closed for the air controls. Check that the stove rope is intact and creating a seal around your stove door and glass.
At least once per year, twice per year if you are burning coal. The stove liner supplier recommends twice per year if your stove is in frequent use.
Other than the chimney being swept, not much. The rope around the door and glass may need replacing after a couple of years and the internal fire bricks will also need to be replaced over time, if more than one crack appears. This is easy to do yourself.
If you have a multi fuel stove, you can burn seasoned wood - or coal (smokeless coal in a smoke control area). Please note that coal and wood should not be burnt at the same time as this may cause your liner to degrade
If burning just wood (not coal) allow a bed of ash to build up on the grate and maintain it at a manageable depth (~3-5cm). When starting a new fire rake it back down to the manageable depth then make a small hole through the ash-bed in the centre of the grate. This allows air from the primary air supply to draw up from under the grate (multi-fuel stoves only) and provides as much air to the fire-lighting stage as possible. For coal, you will riddle all the ash from the grate. Empty the ash pan when full - usually once a week or once a fortnight.
This is called “downdraught” or “reversal” and indicates that the air in your flue is cold and heavy and it happens in very cold still weather, if your stove has not been used for a long time or in warmer weather. It is an atmospheric condition and does not mean there is anything wrong with your stove or flue. You know if your flue is in reversal if you can feel cold air when you put your hand inside your stove. To avoid smoke coming into the room, you will need to warm the flue. We recommend burning a couple of firelighters on their own or holding a hair dryer on the flue pipe for a few minutes. Then light the fire using more kindling than usual.